Queso Dip

Ingredients You’ll Need

• 8 oz (226 g) Monterey Jack cheese, shredded from a block (about 2 cups)
• 4 oz (113 g) medium or sharp cheddar cheese, shredded from a block (about 1 cup)
• 2 tsp cornstarch
• 1 can (12 oz / 354 ml) evaporated milk, divided
• 1 tbsp unsalted butter
• 1/3 cup (50 g) finely diced white onion
• 1 small jalapeño, seeded and finely minced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 can (4 oz / 113 g) diced green chiles, drained
• 1/2 tsp ground cumin
• 1 tbsp pickled jalapeño brine, plus more to taste
• Kosher salt, to taste
• Pickled jalapeño slices or pico de gallo, for topping
• Tortilla chips, for serving

How to make queso dip

1. Step 1.

   Whisk the cornstarch into 2 tablespoons of the evaporated milk in a small bowl until no lumps remain. Toss the Monterey Jack and cheddar together.

2. Step 2.

   Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and minced jalapeño and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring, until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and cumin and cook for 30 seconds.

3. Step 3.

   Pour in the remaining evaporated milk and the cornstarch mixture. Whisk and heat until the milk is steaming and just beginning to bubble at the edges, about 3 minutes. Do not let it boil.

4. Step 4.

   Reduce the heat to low. Add the cheese a handful at a time, whisking after each addition until it has melted before adding the next. This takes about 5 minutes.

5. Step 5.

   Stir in the green chiles and pickled jalapeño brine. Taste and add salt only if needed. If the queso is thicker than you like, whisk in a splash of milk.

6. Step 6.

   Pour into a warm serving bowl and top with pickled jalapeño slices or pico de gallo. Serve right away with tortilla chips.

Why real cheese turns grainy, and what fixes it

Natural cheese is a network of protein and fat held together by water. Heat it too hard and the proteins tighten and squeeze out the fat, which is how a cheese sauce turns stringy and greasy. Processed cheese avoids this because it contains emulsifying salts that hold everything together. Without those salts, you need a substitute, and this recipe uses two: evaporated milk, which has less water and more protein than regular milk, and a small amount of cornstarch, which thickens the liquid enough to keep the cheese from clumping. Both are the usual tricks in queso made from real cheese, and the combination holds up better than either alone.

Cheese choices

Monterey Jack is the base: it is mild and melts smoothly. Cheddar brings sharper flavor and a golden color. Medium cheddar melts a little more smoothly than extra-sharp, which has less moisture and is more likely to turn oily. If you want some heat, swap half the Monterey Jack for pepper Jack.

Cooks disagree on whether to shred your own cheese or buy it bagged. Pre-shredded cheese is coated with starch to prevent clumping, which can help a sauce stay stable, but the same coating can leave a slightly gritty texture. Block cheese, shredded just before cooking, gives the smoothest result as long as you add it slowly over low heat. Either works here since cornstarch is already in the pan.

Add the cheese slowly

Dumping all the cheese in at once drops the temperature and leaves lumps. Add a handful, whisk until it disappears, then add more. Keep the burner on low and take the pan off the heat completely if you see any bubbling. The sauce will look thin at first and thicken as the cheese melts and the queso cools slightly in the bowl.

What goes in besides cheese

Cooking the onion and jalapeño in butter first softens them and builds a savory base so the queso does not taste only of cheese. The jalapeño brine adds a faint tang that brightens the richness. Use it to taste: a tablespoon is mild, and more will make the dip noticeably sharper.

A spoonful of pico de gallo on top adds freshness and a contrast in temperature.

Keeping it warm at a party

Queso thickens as it sits. Transfer it to a small slow cooker set on warm or low, and stir every 20 minutes, adding a splash of milk if it tightens. Do not hold it on high, which can break the sauce. Keep it covered when it is not being served, because a skin forms on the surface.

Storing and reheating

Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container for up to 4 days. The queso will set firm when cold. Reheat gently in a saucepan over low heat with a splash of milk, stirring constantly, or in the microwave at 50 percent power in 30-second bursts, stirring between each. Do not freeze it; the texture does not recover.