Mushroom Hummus

Ingredients You’ll Need

• 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for serving
• 12 oz (340 g) cremini mushrooms, wiped clean and thinly sliced
• 1 tsp kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste
• 3 garlic cloves: 2 minced, 1 left whole
• 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves, plus more for garnish
• 1 can (15 oz / 425 g) chickpeas, drained and rinsed
• 1/3 cup (80 g) well-stirred tahini
• 3 tbsp fresh lemon juice
• 3–5 tbsp ice water
• 1/4 tsp ground cumin
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
• Warm pita bread or pita chips, for serving

How to make mushroom hummus

1. Step 1.

   Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the mushrooms in a single layer and cook without stirring for 3–4 minutes, until browned underneath.

2. Step 2.

   Stir and continue cooking for 4–6 minutes more, stirring occasionally, until the released liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms are deep golden brown. Season with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt.

3. Step 3.

   Reduce the heat to medium. Add the minced garlic, thyme and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and cook for 1 minute, until fragrant. Remove from the heat and set aside about two-thirds of the mushrooms for the topping.

4. Step 4.

   In a food processor, blend the tahini and lemon juice for 1 minute, until thick and pale.

5. Step 5.

   Add the chickpeas, the remaining one-third of the mushrooms, the whole garlic clove, cumin, the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and 3 tablespoons ice water. Blend for 3–4 minutes, scraping the bowl once or twice, until very smooth. Add more ice water a tablespoon at a time if needed for a creamy, spreadable texture.

6. Step 6.

   Taste and adjust with more salt or lemon juice.

7. Step 7.

   Spread the hummus in a shallow bowl, making swirls with the back of a spoon. Rewarm the reserved mushrooms briefly if you like, then pile them in the center.

8. Step 8.

   Drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, sprinkle with parsley, extra thyme and black pepper and serve with pita.

Brown mushrooms are the flavor

Mushrooms are roughly 90 percent water. When they go into a crowded pan and are stirred right away, that water comes out and the mushrooms simmer in it, turning gray and rubbery. Browned mushrooms, by contrast, develop a concentrated, savory flavor that gives this dip its depth.

Give them room and heat. A large skillet, shimmering oil and a single layer are the essentials. Leave them alone for the first few minutes so the bottoms can brown, then stir. They will release liquid; keep cooking until it has disappeared and the pan sizzles again. Salt at the end of browning rather than the start, since early salt draws out water before the surfaces have a chance to color.

Why some mushrooms go into the hummus

Hummus with a mushroom topping alone can feel like two separate foods. Blending a third of the browned mushrooms into the chickpeas carries their earthy, slightly meaty flavor through the whole dip. Only use mushrooms that are fully browned and free of liquid; any moisture thins the hummus and dulls its flavor. The blended mushrooms also tint the hummus a slightly warmer beige, which is normal.

Smooth hummus without peeling chickpeas

Blending the tahini and lemon juice first, before the chickpeas go in, whips the tahini into a light, creamy base. Then blend the chickpeas for longer than seems necessary, a full 3 to 4 minutes. That extended blending, along with ice water added gradually, gives smooth, fluffy hummus without the tedious job of removing chickpea skins.

Use good, runny tahini and stir it well; the oil separates in the jar. Thick, bitter tahini from the bottom of an old jar makes stiff, bitter hummus.

Tuning the texture and seasoning

The hummus should be soft enough to swirl but hold its shape on a pita chip. Chickpea brands and tahini vary, so add the ice water gradually until you get there. Hummus thickens slightly as it chills.

Taste it before serving and adjust. If it tastes flat, it usually needs more salt; if it tastes heavy, a little more lemon juice brightens it.

Serving warm or cold

This works either way. For the most striking contrast, serve room-temperature hummus with warm mushrooms spooned on top just before guests arrive. The hummus can also be made ahead and served cold, with the mushrooms at room temperature.

Warm pita is the classic accompaniment. Cucumber slices, bell pepper strips and endive leaves make lighter options, and the mushrooms spread on toasted baguette slices make an easy crostini.

Making it ahead

The hummus keeps in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. The browned mushrooms keep separately for 3 days. Reheat them briefly in a skillet so their oil loosens and their flavor comes back. Let the hummus stand at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes before serving; straight from the refrigerator, it tastes muted and is stiffer.

Keep the topping and hummus apart until serving. Mushrooms left on hummus overnight weep into it and soften the swirled surface.

Variations

Other mushrooms: a mix of cremini, shiitake caps and oyster mushrooms makes a more complex topping. Shiitakes brown especially well.

Spiced topping: add 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika or za’atar to the mushrooms with the garlic.

Balsamic finish: a teaspoon of balsamic vinegar stirred into the hot mushrooms at the end adds a slightly sweet tang.